We decided to end our touring in Freiburg as it was recommended by our daughter who spent a memorable month here her second summer of college. She found the city and it's surrounding gardens quite peaceful and beautiful - she stayed in the university area. Freiburg is in southeastern Germany bordering France and Switzerland - it's known as culturally rich, with friendly residents (yes, much more friendly than in Berlin), and is the warmest and sunniest city in Germany. Our hosts said there is little snow, and what falls, melts quickly. This was our first visit to this particular city.
We arrived by train from Brussels to Freiburg's central station - and quickly grabbed our rental car and took off for Munzingen, in countryside where we stayed for a week in a lovely vineyard apartment (more on that later). The vineyard is in Munzingen which is now part of Freiburg although you would never know it. But, since our last two visits to Germany in 2006-7, it seems that in many cities, the US "mall culture" has taken over the "old city" sections which have been renovated as shopping areas with all the familiar commercial names. Very boring and disturbing to say the least. Freiburg was not the worst example but the entire old city area was taken over by shopping to the delight of many tourists - according to our AirBnB hosts, large commercial outfits have gobbled up and forced out the traditional stores in recent years - of course this has happened in the US and likely all over the rest of the world as well. Not shoppers, we stuck more to the countryside and tiny towns.
We went into downtown Freiburg two days after we arrived and I took this picture.
To the right of and below the church clock tower, imprinted over the barely visible brown
archway is "Macdonalds" - the one with which we are unfortunately familiar. Sigh....
This is the centrepiece of the old city. Blech.....
Fast forward to Munzingen, recently incorporated into Freiburg - just
on the outskirts - this is the front door of our little AirBnB rental at the
Vorgrimmler Vineyard.
And here we are on one of the many plateaus which over the past ten
years were extensive landscaped, shaped and re-developed for the
German wine industry. In the background is likely France across the
Rhine River.
We were given a 3 hour walking tour by our host, followed
(above) by wine tasting (of course) mid week after we arrived.
The many parcels are independently owned and some are marked by
signs or symbols of the winery. We learned later that Vorgrimmler is
the only bio organic vineyard in the entire area. This affords them an
excellent foothold on a niche market which has not yet expanded
in Germany to the extent it has in the US. All other vineyards in the
area work together cooperatively and grow grapes which are
blended in a local co-op processing building.
These elfin figures are on guard in the yard next to the barn
of the vineyard where we stayed.
And above is a figure carved from wood,
guarding the woodpile! There is a school of sculpting
in the town of Munzingen (Freiburg) and because the tools made
so much noise in the middle of town, the work area has been
moved from main street to the vineyards behind Vorgrimmler farm. Different
finished and unfinished pieces of art made of wood or stone can
been seen in many locations.
As luck has it, there was a ripe apple tree in the front yard, right
outside our window - with Gravensteins, an old German apple
variety not readily available even in Germany - Danny's favourite
apple in California since we left the apple abundance of New
England. It has a very short season and we happened to arrive
at the perfect time for unlimited Gravensteins.
More of a close up of that wonderful apple tree.
Peaches were abundant as well - all organic - no washing
necessary here on the farm.
This was a floral display I enjoyed looking at - right
around the corner from where we stayed. The "pots" are
9" tall cement forms stacked about 7 feet high as a
retaining wall behind several homes built in the last 10 years
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Empty bottles in the barn awaiting the 2014 harvest - we
added one or two more during our stay! |
The largest plateau at the top of the hill (Tuniberg) belonged to the Vorgrimmlers.
It was exclusively set aside to grow their "Spatburgunder rottwein" grapes
(German version of pino noir), our favourite wine of our stay. We sampled bottles
from '09, '10, and '11. 2012 is still fermenting in barrels in their basement!
More vines with Vorgrimmler land in the far background.
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This is the restaurant where we ate the night we arrived in Munzingen
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From the beach, we headed toward Christiania, or "Freetown" within the city of Copenhagen. It's located on an island between where we are staying in the Amager district and the downtown area. Freetown is an alternative neighborhood, in a more wooded area with a mix of alternative housing, workshops, galleries, eateries and bars. In the center, there are booths of of people selling marijuana and hashish. Photographing this activity is not allowed so only one picture here. The area is open to the public, even with guided tours(!). We heard about this place first in 1981 from our guesthouse host - now it's advertised and is quite the crowded tourist attraction.
We walked 11 miles today, back and forth and around. Ended up in a bar near our neighborhood enjoying half liters of Tuborg beer. 
